Main Stages of Perming

Posted by admin - April 21st, 2010

In order to choose the proper type of lotion to perm the hair, it is important to understanding the overall chemical process of perming. All in all there are three main stages of perming. They are: softening, moulding and fixing.

First, the hair is softened with the use of the perm lotion. Let’s dwell upon it in more detail. The strong disulphide bonds in hair shafts are made of an amino acid called cystine. These bonds are broken by the alkaline perm lotion while perming, as it contains a reducing agent called ammonium thioglycollate. In most ceses perms will successfully process without the use of additional heat. Nevertheless, the processing time can be speeded up if you use an accelerator or an additional source of heat.

During moulding the hair acquires the new shape. The perm lotion covers the perm rods and gets through the cuticles reaching the cortex and making hair shafts softened. Now it will easily mould itself to the shape of the perm rods. When the correct degree of curl or waves is achieved, proceed to the next step.

Now it’s time to fix your hair into its new position. During this stage the hair is fixed permanently with the help of neutralizer. Neutralizers have different concentrations and forms. Therefore, some of them can require dilution prior to use by an applicator flask or sponge, others can be applied instantly to the perm rods from an applicator bottle. A great deal of neutralizers need a development phase but a few work comparatively faster. As far as neutralizing is complete, it is necessary to use an anti-oxidant hair conditioner  in order to close the cuticles, wash out ramaining neutralizer, replace moisture, and restore еру natural pH level of hair.

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