Tips to Perm Bleached & Colored Hair

Posted by admin - April 22nd, 2010

If the hair has been permanently bleached or colored, as a rule, it is more porous. Consequently, it will take in perm lotion much quicker. That is why you should choose the appropriate lotion strength particularly for this type of hair. There is hair type that is unevenly porous and, thus, in order to even out the porosity, it will need a pre-perm lotion applied to uneven parts. Remember, pre-perm lotions are not supposed to be rinsed out before perming. They are used on hair tied with a towel and left on. As a matter of fact, pre-perm lotions usually have liquid form. There are four main functions of them:

  • Pre-perm lotions keep the hair moist, so there is not need to spray the hair with water.
  • They even out the porosity of the hair and make perm lotions penetrate different hair parts evenly at the same rate.
  • Some pre-perm lotions protect the scalp from irritation due to certain agents that they contain.
  • These lotions maintain the natural moisture level of hair during the whole perming process.

You can als0 make use of perm regulators that usually come in the form of a thick gel. They are developed to be applied if you arrange all kinds of wind where some parts of hair don’t need perming. They are also used on hair that may need pre-perming at the root area only, because there are already waves and curls in the mid-lengths and on the ends of hair. The зукзщыу of these products is to reduce the amount of lotion that penetrates the cortex of the hair in order to prevent breaking any bonds within.

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Choosing Proper Lotion for Your Type of Hair

Posted by admin - April 21st, 2010

Before you start any perming, make a careful analysis of the scalp and hair. Depending on the type of hair that one has, there are different types of perm lotions to choose from. They have various formulations and, consequently, strength. So, take into consideration the following tips to determine your choice.

The general rule here is this: resistant hair needs a stronger perm lotion, while more porous hair needs a weaker one.

  • If the hair has been processed with bleach and highlights, use the bleached type of perm lotion.
  • If the hair has been processed with permanent tints, there is a special tinted perm lotion.
  • If the hair is in a very dry and porous condition, you should pick up the over-porous lotion type.
  • In case of fine hair with the non-porous texture or coarse hair, make use of the resistant lotion type.
  • Normal perming lotion is used for natural hair that has not been treated with chemicals.

Whatever lotion type is going to be applied always stick to the manufacturer’s instructions on its use and suitability.

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Main Stages of Perming

Posted by admin - April 21st, 2010

In order to choose the proper type of lotion to perm the hair, it is important to understanding the overall chemical process of perming. All in all there are three main stages of perming. They are: softening, moulding and fixing.

First, the hair is softened with the use of the perm lotion. Let’s dwell upon it in more detail. The strong disulphide bonds in hair shafts are made of an amino acid called cystine. These bonds are broken by the alkaline perm lotion while perming, as it contains a reducing agent called ammonium thioglycollate. In most ceses perms will successfully process without the use of additional heat. Nevertheless, the processing time can be speeded up if you use an accelerator or an additional source of heat.

During moulding the hair acquires the new shape. The perm lotion covers the perm rods and gets through the cuticles reaching the cortex and making hair shafts softened. Now it will easily mould itself to the shape of the perm rods. When the correct degree of curl or waves is achieved, proceed to the next step.

Now it’s time to fix your hair into its new position. During this stage the hair is fixed permanently with the help of neutralizer. Neutralizers have different concentrations and forms. Therefore, some of them can require dilution prior to use by an applicator flask or sponge, others can be applied instantly to the perm rods from an applicator bottle. A great deal of neutralizers need a development phase but a few work comparatively faster. As far as neutralizing is complete, it is necessary to use an anti-oxidant hair conditioner  in order to close the cuticles, wash out ramaining neutralizer, replace moisture, and restore еру natural pH level of hair.

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