Alkaline, Acid and Exothermic Perms for Hair

Posted by admin - April 24th, 2010

It’s more than half a century that hair perms, also known as chemical waves, have been in rather wide use. Still, quite many prefer to avoid perming because of the common belief that perms can seriously damage the hair and make it brittle, dry, lifeless and fragile. Though, in most cases this happens because of incorrect use of perms. To avoid such drastic effect, it is recommended to apply different perms according to your hair type. All in all, there are three basic types of perms: acid, alkaline and exothermic.

Alkaline perms are considered to be the most popular type. The main reason for this can be the fact that they create a more firm curl that stays permanent for a longer period of time. Another reason is that are applied much more quickly than acid and exothermic perms: it takes only 20 minutes to finish the procedure. Moreover, they don’t require additional heat while applying. That’s why alkaline perms are also known as “cold” perms. They contain ammonium thioglycolate, an active chemical that makes an unpleasant smell during the process. Alkaline perms have a pH level of approximately 9.5, which is very high. Therefore, alkaline perms give strong and firm results on normal, thick, coarse and resistant hair. On the other hand, the higher the pH level of the lotion’s pH, the more damaging it is for the hair. This is probably the reason why certain conditioning agents are often added to these perms.

Acid perms are becoming more and more popular nowadays. They produce highly conditioned and flexible waves. These perms have activators added to them and generally require heat to open up the cuticle scales to get into the cortex. Though, additional heat may not be necessary in cases when the cuticle layer is damaged (in bleached or chemically treated hair). Acid perms contain a chemical called glyceryl monothioglycollate that has a milder acidic action. That’s why they generally have a slightly acid pH (from 5.5 to 7). Still, they are known to cause allergic reactions if used frequently. Also, because of their gentle formulation, acid perms take much longer to be applied on hair. In comparison with alkaline perms, acid perms  are more suited to fine, sensitive, bleached, fragile, porous, chemically treated, damaged or tinted hair because they minimizes the risk of hair damage have a mildly acidic action that.

Exothermic perms, or exothermic waves, are self timing and self heating. They creates chemical reaction that makes them heat up internally. The heat allows the lotion to get into the cortex and moulds the hair into its new form from inside. Exothermic perms give beautiful bouncy and resilient waves. They are thioglycolate free and have a neutral or low pH level what make them suitable for weak and fragile hair.

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Tips to Perm Bleached & Colored Hair

Posted by admin - April 22nd, 2010

If the hair has been permanently bleached or colored, as a rule, it is more porous. Consequently, it will take in perm lotion much quicker. That is why you should choose the appropriate lotion strength particularly for this type of hair. There is hair type that is unevenly porous and, thus, in order to even out the porosity, it will need a pre-perm lotion applied to uneven parts. Remember, pre-perm lotions are not supposed to be rinsed out before perming. They are used on hair tied with a towel and left on. As a matter of fact, pre-perm lotions usually have liquid form. There are four main functions of them:

  • Pre-perm lotions keep the hair moist, so there is not need to spray the hair with water.
  • They even out the porosity of the hair and make perm lotions penetrate different hair parts evenly at the same rate.
  • Some pre-perm lotions protect the scalp from irritation due to certain agents that they contain.
  • These lotions maintain the natural moisture level of hair during the whole perming process.

You can als0 make use of perm regulators that usually come in the form of a thick gel. They are developed to be applied if you arrange all kinds of wind where some parts of hair don’t need perming. They are also used on hair that may need pre-perming at the root area only, because there are already waves and curls in the mid-lengths and on the ends of hair. The зукзщыу of these products is to reduce the amount of lotion that penetrates the cortex of the hair in order to prevent breaking any bonds within.

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Choosing Proper Lotion for Your Type of Hair

Posted by admin - April 21st, 2010

Before you start any perming, make a careful analysis of the scalp and hair. Depending on the type of hair that one has, there are different types of perm lotions to choose from. They have various formulations and, consequently, strength. So, take into consideration the following tips to determine your choice.

The general rule here is this: resistant hair needs a stronger perm lotion, while more porous hair needs a weaker one.

  • If the hair has been processed with bleach and highlights, use the bleached type of perm lotion.
  • If the hair has been processed with permanent tints, there is a special tinted perm lotion.
  • If the hair is in a very dry and porous condition, you should pick up the over-porous lotion type.
  • In case of fine hair with the non-porous texture or coarse hair, make use of the resistant lotion type.
  • Normal perming lotion is used for natural hair that has not been treated with chemicals.

Whatever lotion type is going to be applied always stick to the manufacturer’s instructions on its use and suitability.

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